Whitening of the Skin: How it works
(AFP) - Bleaching or brightening of the skin has become very popular in many African countries. Here are the main methods used and their side effects on health.
- Creams -
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Lightening creams for the skin are by far the most common practice. They act by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment produced by exposure to the sun.
Ingredients include hydroquinine, steroids, lead and mercury.
Such creams can be safe at specific doses for a limited time, but can be dangerous when used at higher concentrations or for long periods of time, experts say.
"We realize that people use the products for much longer than what is recommended and that they start having really bad side effects," says Dr. Rasheedah Adesokan, general practitioner based in Lagos.
Some companies in Africa have begun to label their products as "organic" to reassure users, says one of its sisters in the Nigerian economic capital, Dr. Isima Sobande.
But "most of the time, it's just a label that covers harmful ingredients," she says.
- Side effects -
At first, users often appreciate the first lightening and "shiny" effects of the cream on their skin.
But to prolong this result, they must continue to apply the product, otherwise the skin regains its pigments, according to Dr. Adesokan.
Over time, the skin becomes irritated, refined and becomes "marbled". Plates may also appear: "There is redness and you can see the green veins," she says.
In the worst case, people develop an ochronosis - an accumulation of acid that paradoxically makes the skin darker.
The use of creams containing steroids can also accelerate hair growth and result in the formation of stretch marks.
These products are very easy to obtain. Sometimes anti-bacterial, antifungal steroid creams available over the counter are also used as whiteners.
- The new fashion of glutathione -
One of the latest innovations in bleaching is a chemical called glutathione, taken in the form of injection or in pills, which are sold on the market or by online retailers.
According to Lester Davids, professor of physiology at the University of Pretoria in South Africa, glutathione is a "powerful antioxidant" sometimes used in the treatment of cancer.
It has the side effect of making the skin whiter, adds Pr Davids, adding that it is presented as a safer alternative to creams.
In recent years, "injection has begun to emerge as a sub-market for skin lightening," says the expert.
The problem with glutathione as with creams is their regulation. But unlike creams, there are very few studies on the effects of using this new product in the long run.
"Using glutathione is not illegal - just be very careful because we do not know the extent of the risk," says Lester Davids.
