Tips: How to Choose and Match Your Belt?
The belt is a piece that has only accessory name.
It has been debated for centuries. Anecdotal or essential? Insignificant or unavoidable? Negligible or unavoidable? The belt, its port and its use are far from creating unanimity ...
Today, we will try to find our way through the jungle of prejudices, preconceived ideas and fantasies that surround this very paradoxical object.
SMALL HISTORY OF A GREAT DEBATE
To define the belt, the dictionary tries a description as objective as possible:
Band of fabric or leather that is fixed around the waist to hold a garment, or as an ornament.
The dual destiny of the belt is there: does it have a purely practical or exclusively aesthetic vocation?
Through the centuries, the different peoples who appropriate it bring different answers to this question.
In this part, we will focus on those interpretations that have influenced the contemporary use of the belt.
ORIGIN, AN ORNAMENTAL OBJECT
Etymologically, "belt" derives from the Latin term cingere which means to girdle or surround.
Nevertheless, the oldest models found by archaeologists, dating from the Bronze Age, 1 are not used to encircle but to decorate.
Indeed, it is then heavy jewels that can count dozens of meticulously crafted and arranged elements. Their value is mostly emblematic and statutory rather than practical.
It takes all its symbol in Greek mythology, especially via the ninth work of Hercules.
In this case, the hero's mission is to seize the golden belt of Hippolyte, queen of the formidable Amazons2.
Later, the Merovingian dynasty perpetuates this tradition of ostentation. The Merovingians add in particular huge loops richly decorated3, iron or bronze.
FROM THE MIDDLE AGES: THE BELT AS A PRACTICAL OBJECT
Around the 10th century, the belt found a utilitarian use under the impulse of the pilgrims of Saint-Jacques de Compostela, who girded their chaplains around the waist to store the nest egg they harvest.
The expression "tightening the belt" dates from this period, where "ceingture" 5 is largely associated with begging.
For centuries, and contrasting with the voluminous Merovingian belts, this article is simply a strip of fabric knotted on the hips.
In the 16th century, under the reign of Francis I, all kinds of objects6 were attached to these straps, mostly in silk or leather.
Later, tailor-made appears and the bourgeoisie is passionate about this accessory. At the Industrial Revolution, in the 19th century, its use is democratized in all strata of society.
During the 20th century, soldiers used it extensively to carve their sizes and give a more flattering appearance to their build. Until the Second World War, the utilitarian aspect does not resurface ...
This is even more true in the female audience who seizes the fashion of the ribbon belt. It is then seen to the hips of women, often personalized. It was at this time, in 1920, Hermès launched its first collection of luxury belts.
BELT TODAY
But do not go astray ...
Since the end of the Second World War, the dual use of the belt in Europe seems to have entered the mores: it serves both as a fashion accessory and a practical object.
That said, we will be able to move to the part that interests us the most: how to choose, how to wear it.
WHAT BELT FOR WHICH OCCASION?
First of all, let's specify that there are different kinds of belts, in various and varied materials ...
This is a bias: I will talk here only about two major categories that you must know absolutely, formal belts and casual.
If you are interested in mounted belts, belts, belts, martingales and other corsets, I recommend you to spend your turn on this paragraph!
Whether we are talking about the first category or the second, we must focus on a few key points: the material, the design and the quality of the finishes.
THE FORMAL BELT
You can imagine ... in this area, leather is king. Forget about polyurethane (famous imitation leather) or polyester ...
The two elements to watch out for are the leather and the buckle.
I advise you to favor robust leathers, with a subtle appearance that will lend itself to the elegance of your costumes....
CASUAL BELT
In a more relaxed context, one can play more on the matter, the form ...
We can approach less conventional textures7 or prefer sophisticated finishes such as braiding or the originality of the loop.You have understood, while the formal belt s'arbore discreetly, his casual cousin allows more eccentricity.
Again, it will be necessary to pay particular attention to the quality of the product. Whatever the matter, it must be strong enough. For suede leather, for example, prefer veal to lamb. In the same way, choose a dense wool or a thick cotton, guaranteeing an optimal solidity on a braided belt.
And as always, watch out for the finishes: brass buckle and clean seams are (almost) always the witnesses of a good quality.
Here, do not hesitate to play on the subjects to display powerful contrasts and enrich your look.
HOW TO CHOOSE A BELT?
SIZE
After selecting the model that suits you, the first thing to do is to choose the right size 8.
Ideally, the pin 9 should go through the 3rd hole when your belt is closed. As traditional models usually have five holes, the rendering is more harmonious when the loop ends on the middle one.
In addition, the band should not exceed too much once inserted into the loop of your pants.
THE WIDTH
To determine the ideal width of your belt, we generally use the same distinction as before: for a formal occasion, and therefore with pants suit, we will favor a rather fine model (between 2.5 and 3.5 cm), discreet .
However, jeans or a chino will more easily accept a belt of 4 or 5 cm wide, thanks to its generous passersby. However, try to stay reasonable: it is a style enhancer and not a trophy to display.
THE COLOUR
Same fight for color! On a dress, we try to match the color of his belt to that of his shoes: it creates a reminder between the elements of the dress, without much to do.
Be careful not to get too far from the classic black or brown, sober and efficient.
On a casual look, we can afford a little more freedom.
This can be an opportunity to twister your outfit, bring a touch of unexpected or, on the contrary, remember an accessory. In short, have fun.
THE LOOP
On a formal belt, the only possible loop is rectangular (or very slightly rounded), silver, with a single barb.
The gold or bronze seem too difficult to wear in the state and the original shapes (round, hexagonal ...) bring an eccentricity that is not welcome on a classic look.
In the same way, a double (or triple) barb would be too heavy on a belt not exceeding 3.5 cm in width. Think simplicity.
On a casual belt, you have more room for maneuver. Again, it's all about dosing ...
Adopt an original clasp if and only if you have not already splurged on the color and width of your room. Trust yourself, you'll notice if the result is shocking.
I would add that a belt buckle matching the color of a ring / watch can truly create a pleasant visual added value.
FROM DARING, AGAIN TO DARING, ALWAYS FROM DARING
THE PATINATED BELT
As we have seen, matching your belt to your shoes is essential on a formal look, but how do you wear patinated shoes? (For a little reminder on the notion of patina, it's here.)
As we speak of an artificial patina, the concern for authenticity gradually gives way to that of originality: these shoes retranscribe less the history of the shoe than that of its wearer.
Several brands and houses have become aware of the phenomenon and have embarked in parallel in the art of patina belts. No more excuses, therefore, not to match his pretty shoes patina to his loop!
AND THE SIDE OF TECHWEAR THEN? (BENOIT)
In a futuristic ninja outfit or urban techwear, no question of wearing a classic leather belt!
Indeed, it would decide too much with the rest and would not be suitable for fans of techwear eager for specs, or even "millet spec" 10 ...
As a result, the essential belt for lovers of urban techwear is one that includes a "Cobra" buckle....
It's these little details that have propelled the Cobra loop into the limelight, and many brands have already adopted it.
Here are my suggestions:
a good old search Google / Amazon by typing "Cobra buckle belt" will give you a choice, including the tiny brands of "tactical gear" American, who offer the lowest prices. In bulk, let's mention Viking Tactics, Klik Belts (they even have dog collars with the Cobra loop!), Condor, Blue Alpha, or Jones Tactical (with the following tagline: Bad Ass Gear11).
Bagjack: Berlin brand, it is she who develops and manufactures bags for Acronym. So they are Bagjack belts with cobra buckle that appear on the shootings of the Acronym e-shop. I very strongly suspect this small product placement to have widely popularized the cobra buckle in urban techwear.
1k corp: one of the first to have made Cobra buckle belts that specifically targeted Acronym customers (and not the "real" military). He popularized a belt that can be stretched or relaxed without undoing it, thanks to a simple and ingenious system. For example, you are in a good restaurant, you with a full stomach, you just have to pull the "D ring" a split second to add play to the belt while keeping it closed.
If the product is perfect, its customer service is catastrophic: little or no response to email and especially a delivery time that is easily counted in months (!!!). Apart from telling you to monitor his Instagram account almost daily (it's through Direct Message that you can order) and to arm you with patience, not much to do ... nor to complain about the quality of the products. In addition, do not forget that the excess strap that hangs very visibly is entirely part of the design, take it into account if you want a product as discreet as possible.
In the face of 1kcorp's inertia, techwear fans are starting to turn to SRS. Presumably owned by one person, the brand offers an equivalent product, cheaper and with more reasonable delivery times. As usual, everything goes through Instagram so do not expect to order from an e-commerce site in good standing.
Alyx: a curious American creative studio that processes the cobra loop expertly. He will for example add large chains or make a sublime white version. Very nice indeed, but beware of the final price ...
For my part, it is a belt of 1KCorp that I could buy, after six months of waiting to be delivered. Well if it was up to me, I would wear one every day as we take a liking to the little noise when we engage the loop and the ease of doing or undo.
Certainly, this is not really the belt to wear with jeans and boots, but if the urban techwear sharpens your curiosity, I advise you to take the plunge.
BECOME A BLACK STYLE BELT
We know the history of this mythical accessory, we know when and how to wear it, we understand what size to choose and what color to prefer, so let's focus on some ideas of looks!
Here, Benoit, Geoffrey and Florian teach us how to wear the belt with a suit.
Fine, stealthy silver buckle, simple barb, color (and possibly material) matching that of the shoes. This subtle reminder structures the silhouette and enhances the whole.
In a casual chic look, the belt allows you to push the slider further on the casual or dressed side. It's all about measurement and desires.
Here, the brown leather strip echoes Luca's shoes and weekender but the wide round buckle contrasts with the formality of the tie.
Reverse effect here: the buckle is classic but the color and the material of the belt bring a bold touch between the raw jean and the blazer striped in seersucker.
Braided in an electric blue elastic band, this belt could destabilize but I like the work around the shades. In addition, the weaving game is a delicate reminder of the Milanese mesh of the watch.
On a pair of white trousers, a thin braided leather belt always makes a little impression. To consume without moderation as soon as the good weather returns!
On the other hand, only a party disguised on a ranch of the Far-West American will legitimize the wearing of this kind of room ...
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WHERE TO BUY YOUR BELT?
Here is a small non-exhaustive selection of brands to which you can turn to decorate your cloakroom.
ENTRY LEVEL
You will find below quality parts for a budget up to 60 €.
Maison Standards: a beautiful Italian calfskin for a 100% made in France belt, all at 59 €.
LodinG: a wide choice of 100% full grain cowhide leather belt for 40 €.
Billy Belt: the braided belt specialist between 35 and 50 €.
GAMM ENVIRONMENT
TOP OF THE LINE
Between 80 and 150 €, you can demand a leather of excellent quality and remarkable finishes.
L'Aiglon: very nice pieces in calf leather or cowhide with a nice work on the buckles, between 80 and 150 €.
Anderson's: pretty models in leather and braided leather around 80 €.
Jacques and Demeter: full grain cow leather 100% made in Limoges, for 110 to 150 €.
the Saddlery Host: a saddler specialized in riding equipment ... Who also makes belts of a quality "luxury" at a more affordable price! All to your measurements, and guaranteed ten years! Starting from 150 €
LUXURY
Beyond 150 €, you offer a unique know-how, exceptional leather (sometimes exotic) and a lot of creative work.
Hermès: this season, the house at the H abandons the calf in favor of bull leather and displays a palladium buckle12 very original for an amount of around 800 €.
Duret: the Parisian house offers a tailor-made service for personalized belts around 350 €.
MAINTAIN AND TAKE CARE OF YOUR ROOM
The purchase of a leather belt is an investment, sometimes substantial, that should be considered in the long term.
To make it profitable, it is necessary to pay regular attention to optimize its life expectancy. You must therefore:
waterproof it to protect it from exposure to rain,
keep it away from heat sources as much as possible, which tends to dry the leather,
do not leave it in the sun for too long because the leather will be discolored,
do not wear it every day because the belt needs to breathe,
feed it regularly (at least every 6 months if possible) to prevent cracks: moisturizing milk, wax and / or special products will be your best friends as long as they do not contain any solvents.
NB: Also try to store it in a place protected from moisture and let it unrolled as much as possible.13
LAST WORDS BEFORE I LOOP IT ...
3000 words, various informations, and some tips later, here we are at the end of this guide of the belt!
3000 years, various innovations, and some creations later, we are however not at the end of the history of this essential basic wardrobe men.
Sometimes decorative, sometimes utilitarian, today the belt arrogates both characteristics and draws its essence from this double identity.
One wondered at the beginning of this guide if the belt had a vocation purely practical or exclusively aesthetic but the answer appears clearly today: the two my captain!
Versatile, mixed, hybrid, this piece links the useful to the pleasant and is now indispensable in the wardrobe of any man who knows that without a belt, the shock is harder.
